Wrinkle creams are a multi-billion dollar business that preys on our own worst fear that we are getting old. And according to the American Academy of Dermatology, anti-aging creams and serums, eye creams and even very expensive topical creams do little to nothing to treat wrinkles. But there is one treatment that is highly effective, is very safe and can last many years. More on that later but let’s talk about how wrinkle cream companies say their products work.

Back to the Drawing Board

Companies that sell wrinkle creams typically advertise that chemicals in their creams and serums penetrate the skin layer to cause changes in the structure of skin and its cells. There are two very important untruths right there. Firstly, the most important function of our skin is to keep chemicals outside of our body. The strong outer layer of our skin is an incredibly strong barrier to nearly every chemical known to man. So wrinkle creams never get to the skin to provide any effect.

The second untruth is the notion that the chemicals in wrinkle creams somehow alter skin metabolism. For example, many creams claim they increase production of collagen which is the protein responsible for the strength and structure of the skin itself.

But our metabolism is like a thermostat in that our DNA gives instructions for exactly how much collagen our body produces and that is not changed by anything applied to the skin even if it could penetrate to get to the skin cells.

In addition, creams that claim they contain collagen also don’t work for the same reason: if bricklayers work at a certain rate, simply giving them more brinks won’t help them work faster. Our DNA tells the skin cells how much collagen to produce and so creams are totally ineffective at increasing collagen production.

What Wrinkle Creams Really Do

If wrinkle creams and wrinkle serums don’t fix wrinkles, what do they do? In the short term, they have three effects: spackling the wrinkles flat, causing inflammation which pops out fine wrinkles and the use of silicates which can provide some shrinking of the skin. Let’s discuss all three effects.

Filling the Cracks

Wrinkle creams and also makeup both contain powder mixed with chemicals that moisturize; keeping the powder particles wet and thus keeps the powder from drying out over the short term. Over the several hours after application, our warm skin causes the water in the moisturizer to evaporate. At this point, the makeup or other product loses volume so it doesn’t fill the wrinkle anymore and since the powder has nothing to hold it together, it begins to crack, making the wrinkles appear worse.

Retin-A

Retinols (retinoic acid) work by causing inflammation which results in skin swelling. And because the skin is thicker, the wrinkles temporarily pop out. This change is best seen with fine wrinkles. There are two problems with these agents. The first is that repeated swelling can lead to long term damage of the skin. The other problem is that retinols are one of the few chemicals that can penetrate the skin and change DNA. This might lead to skin atrophy and long term thinning of the skin.

Newest Hype

Splashed all over the television are commercials about a new product that tightens skin miraculously, and in seconds! These products contain silicates, powder found in certain rocks. How do they work? Perhaps the salts in the cream form a temporary bond with each other, and when the skin dries, there may be some tightening. Unfortunately the improvement is short lived because with any slight skin movement the bonds will crack. So the effect is very short lived. I guess our face is not made of stone!

What Works

For patients with intermediate to deep wrinkles, the best way to achieve permanent and safe wrinkle removal is to use the CO2 laser. When done safely and with good post-treatment skin care, most patients can have anywhere from 85% to 95% of the wrinkles removed permanently. When looking at all surgeries done, few procedures can boast that amount of improvement in one treatment. That’s why the laser is the gold standard to which all other wrinkle removal techniques are compared.

So don’t waste your time and hard earned savings on useless wrinkle creams. Think of laser skin treatment as an investment in your beauty. It can stave off the effects of time on our skin and leave the skin looking refreshed, natural and smooth.